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Farmers' Market Dinner: Grilled Lobsters and Corn

IMG_4829.jpg I ran into some friends at the farmers' market this weekend. I was waiting on the fish line, debating on the sustainable options for dinner. Squid or clams? Mussels or porgy? Ho hum, it was beginning to seem like a terrible rotation, no matter how much I love seafood.

My friends gave me an idea. "We got lobsters, we're making lobster rolls," my friends said, "we got them last week too, they are fantastic."

These days there are an oversupply of lobsters, making them sustainable and cheap (well, cheap for lobsters). Still the two that I ordered came to $26.

"You'll love them," the fish lady promised.

A menu started taking shape in my head: I'd grill the lobsters along with some of the corn I'd picked up, and douse everything in a garlic-lemon butter that I'm currently obsessed with (you'll see a variation of it next week in my column, seasoned with cayenne and served over clams).

The question then became, how to dispatch the lobsters before putting them on the grill. Should I par boil them? This is the easiest, least confrontational way. You chuck the lobsters in a water-filled pot, clamp on the lid and try not to listen to their death rattles as they frantically try to escape their sauna-like demise.

I could stick a knife between their eyes a la Julia Child.

Or I could follow Trevor Corson's wise advice. A lobster expert, his exhaustive research shows that if you freeze the crustaceans for 15 to 20 minutes to numb them, then plunge a knife into their guts, they die instantly and humanely.

Another friend laughed in my face when I told her about my dilemma. I didn't want to plunge my knife into a lobster gut, but wasn't keen on boiling them alive either.

"Do what's easiest for you, " she said. "It's a lobster for god's sake, why are you worried about being humane to a shellfish?"

A year ago, before I ever even contemplated the idea of lobster pain, I would have boiled the creepy little fellows alive. But now I don't think I could ever go back there. Even if I want to steam them for serving, I'll kill them first, as humanely as possible.

Except, come time to do the deed, in that moment I lost my nerve. Even frozen for 15 minutes, the critters were still moving.

Luckily, Daniel was not intimidated by waving claws and antennae. He volunteered and I took a video of his handiwork. I hope that it will inspire other people to try this (hopefully) humane method of seafood slaughter. It's not hard if you're not squeamish (I'm embarrassed by my temporary squeamishness, but so it goes, I'm planning to do the dirty work myself next time, and I have done it before for this article I wrote for the Times, so I'm not a total wimp...)

Anyway, after Daniel killed the beasts, we put them back-side down on the grill, covered it, and let the lobsters cook until their shells went red and the pearly flesh went from translucent to opaque. It took about 10 minutes, and we added the husked corn to the grill after 5.

The recipe for garlic-lemon butter is easy: stir together 4 tablespoons melted butter, 1 garlic clove that you've pasted with a pinch of salt, a few drops of lemon juice, and a bunch of chopped herbs (we used tarragon). Add more salt and some pepper.

Since I don't cook lobsters regularly at home, we didn't have any tools like crackers or shiny forks, but we used a garlic press to crack the claws, and the tips of sharp knives to extract the meat. It was primitive, but effective. And it all somehow felt right, sitting outside on the deck, being gnawed on by mosquitoes, while we gnawed on what are ostensibly just large, tasty $26 insects. With a bottle of rosé, of course.



Posted by melissa at August 14, 2009 |
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Make Summer Time for Blended Soups

2091776541_f1472a0cb6_t.jpgThe fabulous Lynne Rossetto Kasper of American Public Radio's "The Splendid Table" had me on her show to talk about summertime, chilled soups that are a snap to make in the blender, like savory smoothies only better. One of my go-to August recipes is for cold buttermilk (or yogurt) soup with fresh herbs, garlic, and almonds - Lynne thought it sounded a little like drinking Ranch dressing, but I promise you it's a treat that surpasses what you might find in Hidden Valley. Listen to the podcast and decide for yourself.



Posted by melissa at August 08, 2009 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



A taste of Adventures...

3345945732_ba1c4200b5_t.jpg People have been asking, so here it is, my favorite lemon square recipe tarted up with rosemary in the crust. I developed it for my forthcoming book, based on my New York Times column, A Good Appetite. Enjoy!

Lemon Curd-Rosemary Squares

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

For the shortbread:

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup confectioners' sugar, plus additional for sprinkling

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest


For the lemon curd:

6 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

2/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (3 to 4 lemons)

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

1 pinch kosher salt


1. Preheat the oven to 325° F and lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch baking pan.

2. To make the shortbread base, combine the flour, butter, granulated sugar, confectioners' sugar,rosemary, and salt in a food processor. Pulse until crumbly dough forms. Press the dough into the prepared pan and bake until the shortbread is golden around the edges, about 40 minutes.

3. While the shortbread is baking, prepare the lemon curd. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs,sugar, lemon juice, four, lemon zest, and salt.

4. When the shortbread is ready, take it out of the oven and increase the temperature to 350° F. Carefully pour the lemon curd onto the shortbread base and return the pan to the oven. Bake until the
topping is just set, about 20 minutes more. Allow to cool to room temperature before cutting into2-inch squares. Cover and refrigerate the bars up to 3 days. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar before
serving.

Yield: 24 squares



Posted by melissa at August 08, 2009 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Tweet, Tweet, Tweet

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I've succumbed to Twitter though honestly I have no idea what in the world I'll tweet about. Willing to risk getting boring tweets about what flavor mush-du-jour I'm feeding my 8-month-old? You can follow me at @goodappetite.






Posted by melissa at June 24, 2009 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Big Recipe, Tiny Kitchen


My kitchen is no longer tiny - but I remember the days. This video is the companion to a segment I did on the Leonard Lopate Show on Monday. You can listen to the podcast if you like.



Posted by melissa at June 22, 2009 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Me, on the radio..

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The Takeaway (Public Radio International's morning news and talk program) had me on to talk about Thanksgiving leftovers - I guess I had something interesting to say about cold mashed potatoes because they've kept asking me back. It's so much fun and, as I'm often up with the baby at 5:00 in the morning anyway, I don't mind going to WNYC's gorgeous new studios to have a little pre-dawn food chat. I've got my own contributor page on The Takeaway's website.



Posted by melissa at June 08, 2009 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Bklyn Larder Opens

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I have one thing to say: bacon and egg sandwich. No, it's not like any bacon and egg sandwich you've ever had before, with thick cut bacon and hard-cooked eggs. Read more about it here.



Posted by melissa at June 02, 2009 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Sold my book, whew.

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I couldn't be more thrilled to report that I've sold my book "Adventures of A Good Appetite" to be published by Hyperion. It's based on my New York Times column, but it'll have an even more personal slant (the Times tolerates only so much nostalgia) and lots more new recipes. I'll keep everyone posted on how it's going - look for the book on the shelves in the fall of 2010.



Posted by melissa at April 08, 2009 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



A Billion days of Recipe Testing

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Well, it's been a long haul (repeat, loooong), but I've finally turned in the final, final, it-better-be-final-manuscript for the upcoming dessert book by Bill Yosses, White House pastry chef. Bill and I started work on the 600 plus page tome 5 years ago. The book is called "A Billion Beautiful Desserts," and believe me, it truly lives up to its title - the recipes are spectacular and one of a kind, including The Best-Ever Chocolate Chunk Hazelnut Cookies, Spiced Floating Islands, and Banana Tart with Lime Caramel. Worth every bit of wait, it will be available from Norton in the fall of 2010.



Posted by melissa at April 01, 2009 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Have I mentioned lately how much I love my job?

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We just handed in the manuscript for The Blue Ribbon Restaurant Cookbook! I had a fabulous time working on it with Eric and Bruce Bromberg, Suzanne Allgair, Elizabeth Frumin and everyone else at the restaurants. The book is a collection of beloved recipes from NYC's famed Blue Ribbon restaurants (and most of our meetings were held in the dining room of the Blue Ribbon Bakery on Bedford Street (see why I love my job?). But what really makes it special is that the Bromberg brothers share many, many of the tips they've gathered over the years (between graduating at the head of their class from Le Cordon Bleu and running the restaurant for the past decade they've got a few tricks hiding up those chefs' coat sleeves). For example, did you know that if you use semi-sweet instead of bittersweet chocolate in your souffle you can use less sugar in the meringue and end up with the lightest, fluffiest dessert possible? Or that you can tell if a piece of meat is cooked to your liking by sticking a metal skewer into it, then holding it on your cheek; if it's warm, it's rare, hot and it's well done... it takes some practice but I find it easier than the press test. Anyway, it will be out next spring so look for it then.



Posted by melissa at January 09, 2009 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Me in W...

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Who'da thunk it? They didn't want my impression of the latest Paris couture shows, but still - I've always been a fan of this iconic mag and it was a thrill to be interviewed for their piece on slender foodies. Can't imagine why they didn't run my picture instead of Gwyneth Paltrow (kidding!). Click to read the excellent story by the talented Jamie Rosen.



Posted by melissa at November 25, 2008 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



The Happiest Day

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October 8, 2008 we welcomed our darling baby girl Dahlia Beatrix into the world. She's beautiful and we're beyond ecstatic.



Posted by melissa at October 10, 2008 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



"A Good Appetite," that's me.

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Yippee! Starting this Wednesday I'll have a thrice-monthly column in The New York Times Dining Section. It's called "A Good Appetite" and will feature a (usually) quick and (always) yummy recipe or two with a meandering explanation of how I came up with it. Check out the first column (I'm starting simple, this one is on polenta and fried eggs).



Posted by melissa at February 15, 2008 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Why I'm Not Fat

me&robin_2.jpg

To find the answer, you can check out the September 4th issue of PEOPLE magazine (Jonbenet Ramsey is on the cover, but that has nothing to do with me), or click here www.theskinnythebook.com. Or, when it comes out, you can buy The Skinny: How to Fit into Your Little Black Dress Forever (Meredith, December, 2006). It's the book I wrote with my brilliant friend Robin Aronson (the other skinny girl in the photo). To be honest, before PEOPLE called to interview me for this piece, I'd never even flipped through the magazine, not even while getting my hair done. Now I may just have to subscribe. Yes, I'm that happy. This picture above, by the way, is not from the PEOPLE photo shoot (Michael Lavine took the photos of me at restaurant Daniel). It's a publicity shot of Robin and me for The Skinny, taken in Des Moines at the publishers. But I'm wearing the same dress as in PEOPLE. Every girl should have a favorite little black dress, and this sample-sale-scored Chaiken number is mine. May the dry cleaner never shrink it.



Posted by melissa at October 25, 2006 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



One Year Later

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March, 2006- After a whole year's worth of trip to Paris to sample North African pastries, the piece finally ran in today's dining section (see my articles section.)


One thing that was left out, however, was the box I wrote, giving addresses. I've put it up here for anyone who googles.


(And, just to keep things lively, here's a photo of me eating ghribia, a semolina cookie; wish I had one now.)

Where to Sample North African Pastries in Paris:

La Bague de Kenza - 106 rue St. Maur (11e) 01 43 14 93 15
173, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoione (11e) 01 43 41 47 02
233, rue de la Convention (15e) 01 42 50 02 97

Patisserie Malika - 80 Bd. de Menilmontant (20e) 06 25 27 68 74

Le Miyanis - 132 Bd. de Menilmontant (20e) 01 47 97 04 99
A tea room and restaurant with very good savory food as well as
sweets.

La Mosquee - 39 rue Geoffroy Saint Hilaire (5e) 01 43 31 38 20
Sip mint tea and nibble pastries in the tiled courtyard on a sunny day.



Posted by melissa at March 29, 2006 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Say Excuse Me

Chef Interrupted cover image

October, 2005- My book, Chef Interrupted, came out this month. There was a party, and a little bit of publicity (the Leonard Lopate show was a highlight and there’s a podcast somewhere in cyberspace should anyone want to listen; here’s a link: (www.wnyc.org.) See below for more info on this, but let’s just say I’m mighty proud.



Posted by melissa at October 25, 2005 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



More Pastries than Even I Could Eat

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Paris, March 2005. I just completed the most delightful assignment. I went to Paris and ate North African and Middle Eastern pastries ("patisserie Orientale" is what the Parisians call it) for three days. Alice (my "mostest" travel companion, to quote Eloise) generously helped with the cause. In turn I helped her research her article on natural wine bars. Our typical day: take the metro to a distant arrondissement, walk around in circles trying to find the address of the pastry shop, buy everything in sight, find the next place, and so on. Then stop for lunch at a natural wine bar. More pastry shops in the afternoon, then a comprehensive, comparative pastry tasting. Dinner at a wine bar. We did get a little sick of pistachio paste, semolina cake, baklava and mamoul by the end of it. Sadly, the dollar was so poorly valued that we couldn't buy anything but cheese, chocolate, wine and pastry and, ok, I snagged one cute top. You'll be able to read a full report of the pastries in the Times sometime soon...and I'll post the article here in the articles section as well...And check out Alice's website for information on the wine:(www.alicefeiring.com ).



Posted by melissa at March 20, 2005 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



I finished my book (whew)!

me, cooking I finally handed in my cookbook, Chef Interrupted: Chef's Recipes You Really Can Make at Home, in which I took recipes from all my favorite chefs and interrupted them at the point where they are still home cook friendly, before they become too cheffy. It's what I do when I co-author cookbooks with chefs, only more so. I assure you that none of these recipes calls for baroque techniques or equipment (no clarifying stocks, no blow torches ) or annoyingly hard to find ingredients (save for that one sweetbreads recipe, sorry). And I think that they still taste as exciting as a chef's recipe should. The book will be out next October, published by Clarkson Potter. The picture, by the way, is me at the photo shoot, salting a rack of lamb. The lovely and talented Tina Rupp did the photography.



Posted by melissa at December 01, 2004 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Me, in Lucky Magazine...

m_for_lucky.jpg October 2004 - Me, in Lucky Magazine! It's my house -- but, of course, none of the stuff that's supposed to belong to me actually does (the Champagne bucket is truly frightening). It was hauled in by a team of stylists who have since hauled it out. The whole thing is rather goofy, but it's still worth checking out if you happen to have a copy lying around.



Posted by melissa at October 01, 2004 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



My Sister's Wedding, June 29, 2003

Bride and Me.JPG Why do people say the food at the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens is good? Zagat gives it a 27 for caterers. Everyone raves. But I must report the food is not a bit better than standard wedding fare—mediocre. Overcooked sole with buerre blanc. Roasted chicken breast with cranberry sauce (in June?). Dry as dust cake. However, the day was sunny and not too hot, and, most importantly, my sister was as happy as a bride can be. Of course, being the bride, she didn't eat...



Posted by melissa at July 05, 2003 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



WD-50, June 2003

To celebrate my father's birthday. I cannot relate to people (many of my friends and admired colleagues included) who think Wylie Dufresne's food is weird. He's tremendous. Granted, the food was better this time compared to the last time I dined there (just after it opened) when it was merely very good. So maybe those naysayers just need to go back. I think he's one of the most inventive, talented chefs out there today. We ate squid linguine with melon, sweet paprika mayonnaise and dried Serrano ham, which my sister, who is not the most adventurous eater (and in fact was quite miffed at not being able to get a salad…"is this the only non-Asian restaurant in NYC where you can't get a salad?" she asked) thought it was the best thing she'd ever tasted. I almost agree. But then there was the rest of the meal. Last time I was here, the foie gras terrine with marinated white anchovies was the amuse. This time it was listed as an appetizer. Naturally it sounds somewhat strange, but tastes just right, reminding me of monkfish liver in that it's rich, velvety and fishy in a good way. My brother-in-law (again not the world's most intrepid eater) described it as a little wrapped present. Other highlights included the Flatiron beef with a marrow tart, the pork belly (which the waiter introduced as a dish made famous in the NY Times…hm…), and the flawless sturgeon. Desserts also were of note. Parsnip cake sounds like grim English boarding school fare, but is a decadent, moist and caramelized creation. I barely got a bite of either the banana tart or the citrus panna cotta since my family downed those pretty quickly, but what I tasted made me want to sit at the bar one afternoon and just eat dessert for a few hours…which, if you know me, I've actually been known to do.



Posted by melissa at June 22, 2003 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Pig Roast, Memorial Day 2003

roastpig.JPGMore rain, this time in Tyler Hill, Pennsylvania, where friends have a sprawling house at which we stay most Memorial Day Weekends. This year, we decided to hold a pig roast. The photo says it all…and for the record I ate the tail, ears and snout, but not the eyeballs.



Posted by melissa at June 21, 2003 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Rainy London

rainylondon.jpg Rainy London December 2002
Spent New Years' in London with friends. It rained constantly in an extremely atmospheric way. Food wise, the cupboard, so to speak, was nearly bare. Many of the better restaurants close between Christmas and New Years. But we loved the food halls at Harrods for jellied eel, and Harvey Nicks for their shellacked little game pies, biscuits made with coal dust (pitch black and vaguely gritty on the tongue) and oat cakes flavored fashionably with celery seed. Question for further contemplation: Why can't we get good oatcakes in the US? Might be an article in the making.

We did however, get to St. John's for offal on our last night in town. I had dried, salted pigs liver and the best of British comfort food: mashed celery root with coddled eggs on top and deviled kidneys, which Paul detested but gamely tried nonetheless. I thought they were swell.



Posted by foodie at April 22, 2003 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment



Food & Wine Party Article

Me, in Food & Wine! December 2002
An example of being in the right place at the right time. Food & Wine magazine employed me to write another fast column, which I love doing. The theme? Hors d'oeuvres for a holiday cocktail party. Did it, handed it in. A week later the phone rings. Kate Heddings, my editor, is on the line. Could we turn the Fast column into a well story (meaning a longer spread with photos and etc.)? A story that they had originally scheduled fell through and they were in a bind. The new story would consist of photos of me, pretending to give a holiday cocktail party on a fine Tuesday morning in August. Was I interested?


Absolutely. I gathered up some friends, strangers, and acquaintances and told them to dress up in wool and velvet as if it were December. We all showed up bright and early to a fabulous mid-town apartment belonging to a some one the art director knew (and it was much spiffier than my Brooklyn digs). Food stylists (extremely talented ones) made the food pretty. A make-up artist and hairstylist (Kyoko at Ultra 212-677-4380, in case you were curious) make me look pretty. I sucked my gut in and slithered into my favorite tweed skirt, about three pounds too small…And…well…see for yourself on their web site.



Posted by foodie at April 01, 2003 | Permalink | comment(s) Leave a comment