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January 5, 2003
Rainy London December 2002
Spent New Years' in London with friends. It rained constantly in an extremely atmospheric way. Food wise, the cupboard, so to speak, was nearly bare. Many of the better restaurants close between Christmas and New Years. But we loved the food halls at Harrods for jellied eel, and Harvey Nicks for their shellacked little game pies, biscuits made with coal dust (pitch black and vaguely gritty on the tongue) and oat cakes flavored fashionably with celery seed. Question for further contemplation: Why can't we get good oatcakes in the US? Might be an article in the making.
We did however, get to St. John's for offal on our last night in town. I had dried, salted pigs liver and the best of British comfort food: mashed celery root with coddled eggs on top and deviled kidneys, which Paul detested but gamely tried nonetheless. I thought they were swell.