Ardent Anchovy Affection

The other day Daniel and I were discussing our overwhelming love of and devotion to anchovies. I was just finishing up this week's Good Appetite column, which is about making an anchovy pan sauce to eat with lamb chops. In the article, I talk about the anchovy-eschewers of the world. Daniel was shocked.

"What? Who are these people? And what's their problem?"

Daniel travels in less food-obsessed circles when he's not with me, and apparently was blissfully unaware that there is a huge anchovy-hating contingent in the world.

So I thought I'd do a little blog post talking about anchovy love, and try to spread the word, and also correct some misunderstandings concerning these tasty little fish.

The first is, good qaulity anchovies are not fishy. They are salty, but they shouldn't be too salty, either. They should taste complex and interesting and a little meaty, and smell like the sea.

Number two: You don't need to buy salt-packed anchovies, then rinse, gut and soak them in order to get your anchovy satisfaction, even if that is what some fish mavens will tell you is the only authentic way to enjoy them. I honestly don't like the salt-packed ones any better than the oily critters.

Just make sure to buy olive oil-packed anchovies in a jar where you can see the fish. They should look fat brown with reddish stripes. Don't buy the skinny ones curled around capers. And unless you know the brand, generally the ones in glass jars are better than the ones in those hard-to-open flat tins. But not always.

Number three: Those terrible anchovies you one tasted on a pizza when you were a kid, the kind that scared you off anchovies forever? Well, you were right. Those tasted dreadful because they were cheap and poor quality. Cheapo anchovies aren't very good, which is why some people think they don't like all anchovies because they don't like the bad ones. I, however, have such a deep love for the saline fish that I even like the crappy ones if they are the only option.

The best brands are usually imported from Italy, Spain or France. I particularly like Ortiz (pictured). These are very pricey, so I don't usually cook with them. Instead I eat them naked as they are, speared on the tiny fork that accompanies the jar. Or see below for more ideas.

Here are some of my favorite ways to use anchovies without cooking:

Add in lieu of salt in a salad dressing

curled up on a halved hard-cooked egg with a dollop of homemade mayo

on top of tapenade spread over a nice piece of toasted bread

wrapped around green olives and cornichon pickles (the little guys)

speared with marinated artichoke hearts

on a bed of fresh ricotta, served with fresh cracked pepper and drizzled with good olive oil

on top of toasted bread moistened with extra-virgin olive oil

And my current favorite: lying on a thick cushion of cultured, salted butter on a sliced baguette.

 

A tasty fishy dish if there ever was one.

^{Photos by Olga Massov}

Comments

[Fishno12]

Love this!

Another good way to do anchovies is on top of sliced baguette spread with tomato-basil marscapone (not the kind that comes in the tub at whole foods, bit hard to find :/), plus hot pepper ring if you are feeling adventurous.

[Laurie Jesch-Kulseth @ Relish It]

My husband adores anchovies...I like them, but not as much as he does. I'm going to look for the brand you suggested -- they looked delicious.

[Jess]

Hooray for anchovies! It makes me so sad when people are anti anchovy. Thanks for all the ideas.

[Sense of Home]

And now it is time for me to admit I have never eaten anchovies. Since I am making an effort to cook with foods I have never cooked with, and you make a strong case for anchovies, I will give them a shot. Thanks for the tips on purchasing and I think I will start with one on a good piece of toasted bread with olive oil.

-Brenda

[Michelle]

I've enjoyed anchoivies when I eat out, but have never bought them. How long does a jar last once it is opened? And what sort of anchovies would you recommend if you do want to cook with them?

[Molly]

We just got back from Spain where I managed to eat anchovies at every meal. I'll eat them marinated, fried, and in a vinaigrette on top of endive, just to name a few. Really, any way you slice it, anchovies just make things taste better. Best flavor wallop out there.

[Jane Bills]

These are the best anchovies I've had, from southern Italy: meaty, preserved in salt (retains flavor) instead of low-quality oil. You have to pull the filets off the bone but it only takes a minute.

http://lettherebebite.com/product-reviews/seafood/nettuno-anchovies-in-salt/

[Forks Knives and Spades]

I have had anchovies twice in my life, besides in Caesar Salad Dressing. The first time I hated them, the second time I liked them. I've actually never cooked with them but have been craving them for a few years now. I think it's time to experiment with the little fishies...

[Gregoirep]

Melissa: just read your article on lamb & anchovies and I couldn't agree with you more. Anchovies add just the right zing. Like cilantro, lemon, parsley, French mustard. Per Emeril, they "kick it up a notch". I also love your name, but that's another story. Thanks for writing in favor of anchovies. greg

[Linda]

I tried to ask this question in a previous comment but it disappeared...where are you finding Ortiz??? I used to get them at Whole Foods but, while the tuna is still available, the anchovies have disappeared and I haven't been able to find them anywhere.

[Melissa]

Linda - I got them at Brooklyn Larder, they have a ton of them.

Jane- Thanks for the tip!I like the salt cured ones too..

Michelle - Any good quality anchovies, from a jar as I described above, are good to cook with, I just don't use the Ortiz for cooking because they cost $12 a jar instead of $4 or $5. Once the jar is open they will last for months in the fridge, at least 3 months, maybe even 6 or 8.

[Linda]

Melissa, belated thanks for the tip! So glad to have a source again. As always, looking forward to all of your recipes!