Melissa Clark - Food Writer

My Favorite Latke Recipe

In this week's New York Times column I write about a selection of marvelous toppings you can serve with your favorite latke recipe at your next Hanukkah party. Just in case you don't have a favorite latke recipe, I thought I'd share mine, from my book In the Kitchen With A Good Appetite.

Don't try to make the potato batter ahead (not even grating the potatoes). It's better to actually fry the latkes ahead and keep them warm in a 200 degree oven than to have the batter sit and turn brown and get watery while it waits.I usually have everything measured out before my guests arrive, then grate, mix and fry all at once. I serve the latkes hot as soon as they are fried and they never last until the next batch. People gobble them up. After all, they are fried.

Happy frying everybody!

Brand New Heirloom Potato Latkes

Time: 30 minutes

2 large Russet potatoes (about 1 pound), scrubbed and cut lengthwise into quarters

1 large onion (8 ounces), peeled and cut into quarters

2 large eggs

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt or 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Chicken fat, duck fat, or vegetable oil, for frying

1. Using a food processor with a coarse grating disc, grate the potatoes and onion. Transfer the mixture to a clean dishtowel and squeeze and wring out as much of the liquid as possible.

2. Working quickly, transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Add the four, eggs, salt, baking powder, and pepper and mix until the flour is absorbed.

3. In a medium heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat, pour in about 1/4 inch of the oil. Once the oil is hot (a drop of batter placed in the pan should sizzle), use a heaping tablespoon to drop the batter into the hot pan, cooking 3 to 4 latkes at one time. Use a spatula to flatten and shape the drops into discs. When the edges of the latkes are brown and crispy, about 5 minutes, flip. Cook until the second side is deeply browned, about another 5 minutes. Transfer the latkes to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Makes 16 to 20 latkes

Note: This recipe can be doubled, tripled, etc ad infinitum.

 The above photo is courtesy of Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

And Now For Something Completely Different

This is probably the last thing you want to be reading about during Thanksgiving week. I know, I should have posted a picture of a pot of bubbling turkey soup or a leftovers turkey hash. But we didn't have any leftovers this year, and what with the turkey I made last week for the video shoot, if I don't see another piece of that gobbling fowl until next November, well, I can't say I'll be sorry.

Instead, I offer you some fish. A nice clean roasted fish kissed with lemon and sage and dotted with olives that shrivel and crisp around the edges in the oven. It's just the thing to eat this weekend when the leftovers are done. Or when you're done with the leftovers, which ever comes first.

Here's what you do: buy a nice fat piece of blackfish or other thick fillet. This one in the photo weighs nearly a pound and I left it in one gorgeous piece. Salt and pepper your fish on both sides. Drizzle your roasting pan with a little oil, plop in your fish, drizzle with more oil, decorate the top with chopped olives and torn up fresh sage, and roast at 400° F until the flesh is just firm and cooked through (this piece took 10 minutes). When it's done, drizzle with the best olive oil you have in the house (even if you used the cheap stuff for cooking) and sprinkle with a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice, salt, and turkish or aleppo red pepper.  It will fix that overstuffed, post TG fowl feeling in the most pleasant way.

Tips! Get Your TG Tips Here!

 I've got two videos up on The New York Times website, one giving away my favorite pie crust tips (click here, with a recipe for my Brown Sugar and Apple Spice Pie here) and another that's all about that holy grail of gravy makers everywhere: lumpless gravy you can make ahead (click here).

The pie crust post has been up for a few days and I've already received a fair few questions about it. For example: Shouldn't the butter be cold when you add it to the food processor? (Answer: Yes, it should - and it was when I started, but under the videographer's light it quickly warmed to room temperature.) And, shouldn't you seal the top crust to the bottom crust before you bake? (Answer: not in this case - since I'm pre-baking the bottom crust for extra crispness, the top will just fuse to the bottom during the final bake without any work on my part.)

Check The New York Times Diners' Journal tomorrow afternoon, where I'll be giving in depth answers to all your pie questions - and feel free to submit more below! 

Notes from the Red Carpet

So...anybody see any good holiday windows lately?

Last night I got a VIP invitation to the unveiling of Barneys holiday window, its theme: "Have A Foodie Holiday." And the reason I was on the guest list? I'm one of the 60 culinary icons chosen to adorn the window, along with Paula Deen, Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay, Julia Child, Tom Colicchio, Nigella Lawson, Mario Batali, Rachael Ray, Jaques Pepin, Dana Cowin, Gail Simmons, and James Beard.

Can I say, when I first got the email about all of this, I didn't believe it. I thought, that when I signed the model release form for using my image, they were just considering me. When I got the invitation I thought I was being invited as press. Then the event's host Lee Schrager emailed me the details about arriving and walking the red carpet and I knew it was true. Was I thrilled? Tickled? Bowled over onto the couch? You bet!

Then the reality hit me. I had nothing to wear.  I considered a black and gold Mayle cocktail dress that I had, years ago, purchased at Barneys (on super duper final sale). It was pretty, but it didn't look good with the flat shoes I needed to wear because of my broken toe as per doctor's orders (Actually, the doctor wanted me to sport an ugly black boot but I rebelled.) Next I tried on a black trouser-black shirt combo, which I spruced up with a feather stole that was originally part of my wedding ensemble. My assistant was all for it -  but when I heard her enthusiastically compare my outfit to Ziggy Stardust-era Bowie, I decided I might be dressing a little too, er, rock and roll for the event. Finally I switched to a snazzy metallic bronze top, ditched the feathers, and paired it all with a vintage emerald green and gold silk coat that used to belong to my mother's cousin. It got an unprompted stamp of approval from Dahlia ("Mommy, that's a pretty top!"), which was good enough for me and I was out the door.

At the party there was an actual red carpet. I always thought that was just a saying, "red carpet event." But, no. They really put a red carpet down at the entrance.

And there were really paparazzi. Just like in the movies, shouting "look over here! look over here!" Of course, no one was really shouting it at me - until I nudged my way into a shot with Daniel Boulud (who was very gracious about it - thanks Daniel!) and got my chance to be in the spotlight.

I've seen some of the pics (you can see a few here), and they came out well, but I think I flubbed the interview portion of the evening. One of the tv reporters asked me "What do you think about the coming together of food and fashion?" I replied with a long-winded answer which involved a brief discussion of the Italian Renaissance. I believe at one point I name checked the Medicis and lesser known Sforzas along with the culture of artistic patronage and culinary mores of the ruling classes. I noticed the reporter's eyes glazing over, but I couldn't stop myself. Oh well - that one's going out to all the grad students in the house. Holla!

All in all, I felt the night (which doubled as a book release party for the Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Festival Cookbook) was a success. It was a kick seeing some old friends all dressed up to the nines, the conversation was great, the hors d' oeuvres were tasty - I can't remember when I've had so much fun at Barney's (the sample sale doesn't count).

Sadly, the whole shebang ended on a soggy note. When I left, it was pouring. Paula Deen, who was leaving at the same time, wisely advised me to stuff my silk coat in a shopping bag before I raced down the block for a cab. Without an umbrella (it didn't go with my outfit), I did get a little damp - but at least the coat survived for the next photo op.

 

'Twas The Week Before Thanksgiving...

One of the perks of this job is the multiple off-season opportunities for roasted turkey. Usually I have one or two Thanksgiving-related articles due in the summertime months, so I'm able to get my drumstick on in July and August - which is perfect timing because then I have a few buffer months to work up a roast turkey craving before the last Thursday in November comes around again. What can I say? It's a living.

To my astonishment, there were no roast turkey assignments this summer (though I did score one for prime rib that was perfectly mouth-watering). So I have been anticipating this year's turkey day like a prisoner awaiting release from solitary. I've been doing hard time over here, marking off the days until my next gravy bedaubed portion of dark meat. 

Then, like a phone call from the governor, The Times asked me to do a TG video for the Diners' Journal. They wanted me to give my tips for lumpless gravy, which, of course necessitated the roasting of an entire 12-pound, butter-brushed, garlic and lemon-stuffed gobbler. Sure, I could have probably faked the gravy demo with the drumstick from an extra-large rotisserie chicken. But I, dear reader, am a professional.

The gravy video will be up on the Times blog on Monday, but, in the meantime, are you looking for some turkey tips? Check out The New York Times coverage of everything Thanksgiving here, including my column on holiday appetizers that pull double duty here, and a few ideas for a happier TG I shared with my friends at thekitchn.com here. Happy week-before-Thanksgiving everybody!

Butter Seasons' Greetings!

 When the weather is crisp, my thoughts turn to puff pastry. Puff pastry, with its flaky, buttery layers is simply a disaster to work with in the hot summer months no matter how high you set the a/c. Plus - who wants to eat that much extra butter in August anyway? (Ok, I do, but I try to surpress the urge during bathing suit season).

But November is another thing entirely. In this week's Times column (read it here) I share my recipe for Butternut Squash and Mushroom Wellington, something I came up  with to have one more way to satisfy my flaky, buttery craving. 

But if what you covet is sweet rather than savory, have I got a puff pastry recipe for you. This comes from my new book In The Kitchen with A Good Appetite, it's a sublimely sticky apple tart with a palmier-like sugar crunch I adapted from the wonderful Bill Yosses (aka "The White House Pastry Chef," or as President Obama calls him, "The Crustmaster"). Make it with all-butter store bought puff pastry and you'll have an easy yet extraordinary treat that celebrates the season - the season of buttery delights, that is.  

Individual French Honey-Apple Tarts

Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

 1 (14-ounce) prepared puff pastry, defrosted if necessary

2 tablespoons honey

1 1/4 pounds mixed variety apples (about 3), peeled, cored and sliced 1/8-inch thick

1 cup confectioner’s sugar

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped and reserved

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and position a rack in the center of the oven. Line an 11-by-17-inch baking sheet with parchment.

2. On a lightly floured surface, unfold the pastry. Using a sharp knife cut the dough into four squares along the fold. Cut each square in half and roll into a rectangle, about 7- by 3-inches. Transfer the rectangles to the baking sheet.

3. In a small saucepan over low heat, or in the microwave, warm the honey. Prick the dough all over with a fork and brush each rectangle lightly with the honey. Layer the apple slices closely together on top of each rectangle in a row. Transfer the tray to the refrigerator to rest for 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, combine the confectioner’s sugar, butter, and vanilla bean seeds. Simmer until the sugar and butter are melted, whisking to combine.

5. Brush the top of each tart with a third of the sugar mixture. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake, basting with the sugar mixture every 20 minutes, until the pastries are puffed and golden, about 60 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving.

Serves 8

Roasted Cauliflower With Cumin: Here's Lunch

Roasted vegetable season is here and I, for one, am embracing it with reckless abandon. I particularly love roasting cruciferous vegetables with whole cumin seeds. Not only does the cumin act as a natural remedy to help reduce the dreaded intestinal gas factor, but it adds a pleasant earthy flavor to balance the assertive tang of the veg.  

Roasted cauliflower makes a nice and simple side dish (even Dahlia will eat it if she's distracted enough), but the other day I made it into lunch. I aded a topping of salted yogurt (which is simply a good, full fat yogurt with a little kosher salt mixed in) and a smattering of chopped fresh mint.  It was a perfect light lunch, and could have made a great dinner, too, served over brown rice.

Here's what you do: Cut the cauliflower into bite-sized florets and toss them with a lot of extra-virgin olive oil, a generous pinch of whole cumin seeds, and a normal sized pinch of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Scatter the mixture on a baking sheet and roast in a 425° F oven, stirring once or twice, for about 20 to 30 minutes. It's okay if the florets are not cut evenly - the bigger pieces will get tender and brown on the edges while the smaller bites get toasty brown and crispy-caramelized all over. I think it makes for an excellent contrast of textures. Just another reason (besides the chilly, sleety, all around gross day) to turn on the oven. 

 

Bunny Soup

My just-turned-two-years-old daughter, Dahlia, seems to be well on her way to a career in recipe developing. Yesterday she said, "Look Mommy, I made you some bunny soup!" and presented me with a plastic bowlful of yarn she had ripped from the tail of a stuffed bunny named "Carrots," which was a birthday gift from her Granny Sue. Dahlia smiled sweetly as she gave me a spoon. Too bad, Carrots.

Although I tried to explain to my daughter that she really should be more careful with her toys - I admit to being a little proud of her, too. I'm happy that she knows rabbit is a delicious ingredient as well as being a cuddly character in Mr. Mac Gregor's garden or the Twelve Acre Woods.

That's a very different scenario from my childhood, where my parents had my sister and I convinced that our favorite rabbit stew was actually made from the much less lovable chicken. I wrote about the moment of discovery is my New York Times column, click here to read the story, which includes my recipe for Mustardy Braised Rabbit with Carrots. Dahlia's recipe is still in development. 

Even Easier Roasted Red Peppers

I adore roasted red peppers, but haven't done a proper batch in years. It's not that they are hard to make, just messy and time consuming. You have to blister the red peppers until the skins char black, then steam them in a bowl or bag until they cool, then slither off the black skins with your fingers but NOT under running water or you will lose a lot of flavor. Inevitably, this peeling takes much longer than I think it will, plus the black bits of skin stick everywhere - counters, dishtowels, under my fingernails. Clean up is a pain.

But I love the rich, earthy flavor of roasted peppers, especially when they're piled high on a slice of garlic-rubbed crostini.

So for the last two red pepper seasons I've been struck a compromise that suits my current, lazier cooking style much better. I roast the peppers until melting, caramelized, and jammy, but I don't peel them.

Here's what you do: Halve and trim several meaty, fleshy red peppers (or yellow or orange or purple or those half-orange, half green ones you see, or a combination) and take out all the seeds. Use a sharp knife to cut out the fibrous veins (see above) and slice the peppers into thin strips. Then all you have to do is toss the strips with olive oil, salt, and pepper and roast them in a 325° oven just as you would any other seasonal vegetable. You can add a few smashed cloves of garlic or scatter some springs of rosemary over the pan if you want, or just keep it simple with the pepper strips only. 

Leave them in the oven until soft, stiring once or twice. This will take anywhere from 30 to 50 minutes (depending on how fleshy the peppers are or how thickly you've sliced them).  It's okay for them to get a little brown, but not crisp. What you're going for here is a nice, silky texture - practically a pepper confit with an intense pepper flavor. Yum. Then pile them on crostini or roated fish or just eat them as a side dish. They are not as velvet-textured and refined as proper roasted peppers, but I can throw them together in minutes. These days, that's where I'm at.