Aboard the Truffle Truck, Some Sniffs Before the Sale
New York Times: December, 2006
FOR John Magazino, a baby-faced 37-year-old from Larchmont, N.Y., the unmarked white van in which he conducts his truffle...
New York Times: December, 2006
FOR John Magazino, a baby-faced 37-year-old from Larchmont, N.Y., the unmarked white van in which he conducts his truffle...
A GOOD APPETITE; Taking Back a Childhood Favorite
New York Times: April, 2007
OF all the reasons to visit my friends with small children, grilled cheese sandwiches may be the best. Sure, I...
New York Times: April, 2007
OF all the reasons to visit my friends with small children, grilled cheese sandwiches may be the best. Sure, I...
A GOOD APPETITE; A Salad No Rabbit Could Love
New York Times, March 2007
IN college, I worked at a restaurant where the owner had a low opinion of the ordering habits of his...
New York Times, March 2007
IN college, I worked at a restaurant where the owner had a low opinion of the ordering habits of his...
A GOOD APPETITE; Not Irish, but Maybe It's for the Best
New York Times, March 2007
WHEN I was in college, I somehow acquired a recipe for what I've always considered to be the ultimate Irish...
New York Times, March 2007
WHEN I was in college, I somehow acquired a recipe for what I've always considered to be the ultimate Irish...
FORAGING; Bologna, Italy: Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo
New York Times, February 2007
A stroll down Via Drapperie, Bologna's main market street, leads past vegetable stalls overflowing with exotic citrus fruits and melons,...
New York Times, February 2007
A stroll down Via Drapperie, Bologna's main market street, leads past vegetable stalls overflowing with exotic citrus fruits and melons,...
A GOOD APPETITE; Winter's Stew Infused With Summer
New York Times, February 2007
AT a recent dinner in a fancy restaurant, my braised lamb shanks were served pulled off the bone and molded...
New York Times, February 2007
AT a recent dinner in a fancy restaurant, my braised lamb shanks were served pulled off the bone and molded...
A GOOD APPETITE; Saving a Few Hours On a Trip Back to Colonial Times
New York Times, February 2007
MY friend Dave Wondrich is the proud owner of an authentic earthenware bean pot, passed down from his grandmother Virginia...
New York Times, February 2007
MY friend Dave Wondrich is the proud owner of an authentic earthenware bean pot, passed down from his grandmother Virginia...
A GOOD APPETITE; A Morning Meal Begs to Stay Up Late
New York Times, January 2007
A CRAVING that Americans share, to the exclusion of the rest of the world, is a penchant for cold cereal...
New York Times, January 2007
A CRAVING that Americans share, to the exclusion of the rest of the world, is a penchant for cold cereal...
Heaven in a Pie Pan: The Perfect Crust
New York Times, November 2006
A FEW years ago, I achieved perfection in a pie crust and it smelled like pig. Not in a muddy,...
New York Times, November 2006
A FEW years ago, I achieved perfection in a pie crust and it smelled like pig. Not in a muddy,...
Fewer Come to the Harvest Table, But Meals Are Still Memorable
New York Times, October 2006
IT was a harvest day like any other at Clos Roche Blanche vineyards in the Loire Valley. The weather was...
New York Times, October 2006
IT was a harvest day like any other at Clos Roche Blanche vineyards in the Loire Valley. The weather was...
The Stuff of Life
Bon Appetit, October 2006
Ana, my bread-loving friend from a small town near Seattle, called one recent afternoon. Her boyfriend's 9-year old son...
Bon Appetit, October 2006
Ana, my bread-loving friend from a small town near Seattle, called one recent afternoon. Her boyfriend's 9-year old son...
Precision Cuisine, The Art of Feeding 800 a Night in Style
New York Times, September 2006
IN the arena-size basement of his stadium-size restaurant, Buddakan, the chef, Michael Schulson, translates the graceful choreography of the usual...
New York Times, September 2006
IN the arena-size basement of his stadium-size restaurant, Buddakan, the chef, Michael Schulson, translates the graceful choreography of the usual...
The Chef: Zak Pelaccio; From Malaysia, a Pungent Ferment
IN the climate-controlled comfort of his parents' loft in SoHo, where Zak Pelaccio was cooking some of his favorite Malaysian...
IN the climate-controlled comfort of his parents' loft in SoHo, where Zak Pelaccio was cooking some of his favorite Malaysian...
Tiny Come-Ons, Plain and Fancy; The Amuse-Bouche Is Welcomed at Home
AS I helped a friend prepare for a dinner party on the Lower East Side recently, she gave detailed instructions...
AS I helped a friend prepare for a dinner party on the Lower East Side recently, she gave detailed instructions...
The Chef: Zak Pelaccio; The Familiar Cubano, With a Kiss of Complexity
GIVEN a choice between making a dish that is crowd-pleasing but predictable and one that is risky and potentially groundbreaking,...
GIVEN a choice between making a dish that is crowd-pleasing but predictable and one that is risky and potentially groundbreaking,...
The Chef: Zak Pelaccio; The Freshest Produce (And Duck Tongues?)
AMONG the many orders of chefdom, there are two rarely intersecting sects. There are the zealots of the farmers' market...
AMONG the many orders of chefdom, there are two rarely intersecting sects. There are the zealots of the farmers' market...
Jacques in Mexico
When Jacques Pépin gets ready to cook a meal at his vacation home in Playa del Carmen, Mexico, he's as...
When Jacques Pépin gets ready to cook a meal at his vacation home in Playa del Carmen, Mexico, he's as...
Hot Nights, Cold Suppers
THERE is an essential truth about cold cooked meat that's revealed in a brisket sandwich -- what I call the...
THERE is an essential truth about cold cooked meat that's revealed in a brisket sandwich -- what I call the...
Tonight I'll Have What They're Not Having
LEWIS SPADA, the manager at Fish Tales in Brooklyn, was momentarily flummoxed when I asked for Boston mackerel. Of all...
LEWIS SPADA, the manager at Fish Tales in Brooklyn, was momentarily flummoxed when I asked for Boston mackerel. Of all...
Celery and Salad Take Turns as Dessert
IN a restaurant, the division between the savory and sweet sides of the kitchen runs far deeper than, say, a...
IN a restaurant, the division between the savory and sweet sides of the kitchen runs far deeper than, say, a...