A GOOD APPETITE; Tradition Remade for New Year
By MELISSA CLARK Published: September 24, 2008 SOME dishes are so iconic that it would never occur to me to...
By MELISSA CLARK Published: September 24, 2008 SOME dishes are so iconic that it would never occur to me to...
A GOOD APPETITE; Well-Planned Wackiness
By MELISSA CLARK Published: February 18, 2009 THERE was a time before I was married when I cooked grand, if...
By MELISSA CLARK Published: February 18, 2009 THERE was a time before I was married when I cooked grand, if...
A GOOD APPETITE; Luxury on Sale: The Lobster Glut
By MELISSA CLARK Published: December 10, 2008 I'M a sucker for a sale, the kind of shopper who tallies the...
By MELISSA CLARK Published: December 10, 2008 I'M a sucker for a sale, the kind of shopper who tallies the...
A GOOD APPETITE; Secrets of the Cake Stand
By MELISSA CLARK Published: March 18, 2009 ONE of my favorite wedding gifts is a whimsical, undulating porcelain cake stand...
By MELISSA CLARK Published: March 18, 2009 ONE of my favorite wedding gifts is a whimsical, undulating porcelain cake stand...
A GOOD APPETITE; A Tart That's Sweet, Yet Savory
By MELISSA CLARK Published: September 17, 2008 THE flow of ideas and ingredients between the savory and sweet sides of...
By MELISSA CLARK Published: September 17, 2008 THE flow of ideas and ingredients between the savory and sweet sides of...
A GOOD APPETITE; A Garlic Festival Without a Single Clove
By MELISSA CLARK Published: June 18, 2008 ''I'D rather have an ounce of garlic than a pound of truffles,'' my...
By MELISSA CLARK Published: June 18, 2008 ''I'D rather have an ounce of garlic than a pound of truffles,'' my...
A GOOD APPETITE; An Apple and Barley Get-Together
By MELISSA CLARK Published: November 5, 2008 BARLEY has always been the one-trick pony of my pantry. I'd trot it...
By MELISSA CLARK Published: November 5, 2008 BARLEY has always been the one-trick pony of my pantry. I'd trot it...
A GOOD APPETITE; Snail Butter, Please Hold the Snails
By MELISSA CLARK Published: July 16, 2008 WHEN I was growing up, my parents were so obsessed with eating snails...
By MELISSA CLARK Published: July 16, 2008 WHEN I was growing up, my parents were so obsessed with eating snails...
A GOOD APPETITE; Third Time's the Charm, Valentine
By MELISSA CLARK Published: February 11, 2009 A FEW years ago, I asked my husband, Daniel, what sweet treat I...
By MELISSA CLARK Published: February 11, 2009 A FEW years ago, I asked my husband, Daniel, what sweet treat I...
THE GOOD APPETITE; Silky, Sweet and Tart, a Triple Threat
FOR cooks of a lemon-loving persuasion, a puckery citrus curd is the culinary analogue of a chocolate fanatic's fudgy ganache....
FOR cooks of a lemon-loving persuasion, a puckery citrus curd is the culinary analogue of a chocolate fanatic's fudgy ganache....
Aboard the Truffle Truck, Some Sniffs Before the Sale
New York Times: December, 2006
FOR John Magazino, a baby-faced 37-year-old from Larchmont, N.Y., the unmarked white van in which he conducts his truffle...
New York Times: December, 2006
FOR John Magazino, a baby-faced 37-year-old from Larchmont, N.Y., the unmarked white van in which he conducts his truffle...
A GOOD APPETITE; Taking Back a Childhood Favorite
New York Times: April, 2007
OF all the reasons to visit my friends with small children, grilled cheese sandwiches may be the best. Sure, I...
New York Times: April, 2007
OF all the reasons to visit my friends with small children, grilled cheese sandwiches may be the best. Sure, I...
A GOOD APPETITE; A Salad No Rabbit Could Love
New York Times, March 2007
IN college, I worked at a restaurant where the owner had a low opinion of the ordering habits of his...
New York Times, March 2007
IN college, I worked at a restaurant where the owner had a low opinion of the ordering habits of his...
A GOOD APPETITE; In Case of Emergency, Extract Sausage From Freezer, and Enjoy
ASK cooks about their culinary emergency funds -- for use in case of a rainy day, citywide blackout, severe illness...
ASK cooks about their culinary emergency funds -- for use in case of a rainy day, citywide blackout, severe illness...
A GOOD APPETITE; Not Irish, but Maybe It's for the Best
New York Times, March 2007
WHEN I was in college, I somehow acquired a recipe for what I've always considered to be the ultimate Irish...
New York Times, March 2007
WHEN I was in college, I somehow acquired a recipe for what I've always considered to be the ultimate Irish...
A GOOD APPETITE; Shrimp Scampi, A Classic Open to Interpretation
SHRIMP scampi is a dish so entrenched in the Italian-American vernacular that until the day I decided to make it,...
SHRIMP scampi is a dish so entrenched in the Italian-American vernacular that until the day I decided to make it,...
FORAGING; Bologna, Italy: Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo
New York Times, February 2007
A stroll down Via Drapperie, Bologna's main market street, leads past vegetable stalls overflowing with exotic citrus fruits and melons,...
New York Times, February 2007
A stroll down Via Drapperie, Bologna's main market street, leads past vegetable stalls overflowing with exotic citrus fruits and melons,...
A GOOD APPETITE; Winter's Stew Infused With Summer
New York Times, February 2007
AT a recent dinner in a fancy restaurant, my braised lamb shanks were served pulled off the bone and molded...
New York Times, February 2007
AT a recent dinner in a fancy restaurant, my braised lamb shanks were served pulled off the bone and molded...
A GOOD APPETITE; Saving a Few Hours On a Trip Back to Colonial Times
New York Times, February 2007
MY friend Dave Wondrich is the proud owner of an authentic earthenware bean pot, passed down from his grandmother Virginia...
New York Times, February 2007
MY friend Dave Wondrich is the proud owner of an authentic earthenware bean pot, passed down from his grandmother Virginia...
A GOOD APPETITE; A Morning Meal Begs to Stay Up Late
New York Times, January 2007
A CRAVING that Americans share, to the exclusion of the rest of the world, is a penchant for cold cereal...
New York Times, January 2007
A CRAVING that Americans share, to the exclusion of the rest of the world, is a penchant for cold cereal...
Heaven in a Pie Pan: The Perfect Crust
New York Times, November 2006
A FEW years ago, I achieved perfection in a pie crust and it smelled like pig. Not in a muddy,...
New York Times, November 2006
A FEW years ago, I achieved perfection in a pie crust and it smelled like pig. Not in a muddy,...
Fewer Come to the Harvest Table, But Meals Are Still Memorable
New York Times, October 2006
IT was a harvest day like any other at Clos Roche Blanche vineyards in the Loire Valley. The weather was...
New York Times, October 2006
IT was a harvest day like any other at Clos Roche Blanche vineyards in the Loire Valley. The weather was...
Precision Cuisine, The Art of Feeding 800 a Night in Style
New York Times, September 2006
IN the arena-size basement of his stadium-size restaurant, Buddakan, the chef, Michael Schulson, translates the graceful choreography of the usual...
New York Times, September 2006
IN the arena-size basement of his stadium-size restaurant, Buddakan, the chef, Michael Schulson, translates the graceful choreography of the usual...
The Chef: Zak Pelaccio; From Malaysia, a Pungent Ferment
IN the climate-controlled comfort of his parents' loft in SoHo, where Zak Pelaccio was cooking some of his favorite Malaysian...
IN the climate-controlled comfort of his parents' loft in SoHo, where Zak Pelaccio was cooking some of his favorite Malaysian...
Tiny Come-Ons, Plain and Fancy; The Amuse-Bouche Is Welcomed at Home
AS I helped a friend prepare for a dinner party on the Lower East Side recently, she gave detailed instructions...
AS I helped a friend prepare for a dinner party on the Lower East Side recently, she gave detailed instructions...
The Chef: Zak Pelaccio; The Familiar Cubano, With a Kiss of Complexity
GIVEN a choice between making a dish that is crowd-pleasing but predictable and one that is risky and potentially groundbreaking,...
GIVEN a choice between making a dish that is crowd-pleasing but predictable and one that is risky and potentially groundbreaking,...
The Chef: Zak Pelaccio; The Freshest Produce (And Duck Tongues?)
AMONG the many orders of chefdom, there are two rarely intersecting sects. There are the zealots of the farmers' market...
AMONG the many orders of chefdom, there are two rarely intersecting sects. There are the zealots of the farmers' market...
Hot Nights, Cold Suppers
THERE is an essential truth about cold cooked meat that's revealed in a brisket sandwich -- what I call the...
THERE is an essential truth about cold cooked meat that's revealed in a brisket sandwich -- what I call the...
Tonight I'll Have What They're Not Having
LEWIS SPADA, the manager at Fish Tales in Brooklyn, was momentarily flummoxed when I asked for Boston mackerel. Of all...
LEWIS SPADA, the manager at Fish Tales in Brooklyn, was momentarily flummoxed when I asked for Boston mackerel. Of all...
Celery and Salad Take Turns as Dessert
IN a restaurant, the division between the savory and sweet sides of the kitchen runs far deeper than, say, a...
IN a restaurant, the division between the savory and sweet sides of the kitchen runs far deeper than, say, a...
First Came the Smoker, Then the Ingredients
SOME kitchen equipment is purchased to make a dish easier to create. Some dishes are created to justify the purchase...
SOME kitchen equipment is purchased to make a dish easier to create. Some dishes are created to justify the purchase...
One Dessert, Many Flavors, Even Sweet
IN the ultrawhite kitchen beneath his ultrawhite restaurant, the chef Iacopo Falai held two seemingly identical pieces of candied fennel...
IN the ultrawhite kitchen beneath his ultrawhite restaurant, the chef Iacopo Falai held two seemingly identical pieces of candied fennel...
One Dessert, Many Flavors, Even Sweet
IN the ultrawhite kitchen beneath his ultrawhite restaurant, the chef Iacopo Falai held two seemingly identical pieces of candied fennel...
IN the ultrawhite kitchen beneath his ultrawhite restaurant, the chef Iacopo Falai held two seemingly identical pieces of candied fennel...
To Lure the French, Don't Be Too Sweet
OVER lunch with my Parisian friend Florent in a frayed cafe off the trendy Rue Oberkampf several months ago, the...
OVER lunch with my Parisian friend Florent in a frayed cafe off the trendy Rue Oberkampf several months ago, the...
Weighing In on the Boxes for the Fast-Food Set
Weighing In on the Boxes for the Fast-Food Set Nothing is better than homemade macaroni and cheese, but in the...
Weighing In on the Boxes for the Fast-Food Set Nothing is better than homemade macaroni and cheese, but in the...
For Perfect Cookies, Add a Big Dollop of Blithe Abandon
WHEN it comes to improvising in the kitchen, pastry chefs are adamant. Winging it may be fine when making savory...
WHEN it comes to improvising in the kitchen, pastry chefs are adamant. Winging it may be fine when making savory...
Would Any Other Frenchman Do This To a Grape?
THAT you can take the pastry chef out of La Roquebrussanne but can't take La Roquebrussanne out of the pastry...
THAT you can take the pastry chef out of La Roquebrussanne but can't take La Roquebrussanne out of the pastry...
Alliums' Adventures in Wonderland
It may not have been a tumble down the rabbit hole, but the trip to Annie Wayte’s home—twisting along Chinatown’s...
It may not have been a tumble down the rabbit hole, but the trip to Annie Wayte’s home—twisting along Chinatown’s...
No One Ever Slaved Over a Hot Toaster Oven
A CONFESSION: Until recently, tucked between the latest-model ice cream maker and a high-tech juicer, sat the toaster oven I've...
A CONFESSION: Until recently, tucked between the latest-model ice cream maker and a high-tech juicer, sat the toaster oven I've...
Easing the Way to Dinner
LACKING the icy gloss of a dry martini or the urbanity of a perfect manhattan, aperitifs have always played the...
LACKING the icy gloss of a dry martini or the urbanity of a perfect manhattan, aperitifs have always played the...