Aboard the Truffle Truck, Some Sniffs Before the Sale
New York Times: December, 2006
FOR John Magazino, a baby-faced 37-year-old from Larchmont, N.Y., the unmarked white van in which he conducts his truffle...
New York Times: December, 2006
FOR John Magazino, a baby-faced 37-year-old from Larchmont, N.Y., the unmarked white van in which he conducts his truffle...
A GOOD APPETITE; Taking Back a Childhood Favorite
New York Times: April, 2007
OF all the reasons to visit my friends with small children, grilled cheese sandwiches may be the best. Sure, I...
New York Times: April, 2007
OF all the reasons to visit my friends with small children, grilled cheese sandwiches may be the best. Sure, I...
A GOOD APPETITE; A Salad No Rabbit Could Love
New York Times, March 2007
IN college, I worked at a restaurant where the owner had a low opinion of the ordering habits of his...
New York Times, March 2007
IN college, I worked at a restaurant where the owner had a low opinion of the ordering habits of his...
A GOOD APPETITE; Not Irish, but Maybe It's for the Best
New York Times, March 2007
WHEN I was in college, I somehow acquired a recipe for what I've always considered to be the ultimate Irish...
New York Times, March 2007
WHEN I was in college, I somehow acquired a recipe for what I've always considered to be the ultimate Irish...
FORAGING; Bologna, Italy: Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo
New York Times, February 2007
A stroll down Via Drapperie, Bologna's main market street, leads past vegetable stalls overflowing with exotic citrus fruits and melons,...
New York Times, February 2007
A stroll down Via Drapperie, Bologna's main market street, leads past vegetable stalls overflowing with exotic citrus fruits and melons,...
A GOOD APPETITE; Winter's Stew Infused With Summer
New York Times, February 2007
AT a recent dinner in a fancy restaurant, my braised lamb shanks were served pulled off the bone and molded...
New York Times, February 2007
AT a recent dinner in a fancy restaurant, my braised lamb shanks were served pulled off the bone and molded...
A GOOD APPETITE; Saving a Few Hours On a Trip Back to Colonial Times
New York Times, February 2007
MY friend Dave Wondrich is the proud owner of an authentic earthenware bean pot, passed down from his grandmother Virginia...
New York Times, February 2007
MY friend Dave Wondrich is the proud owner of an authentic earthenware bean pot, passed down from his grandmother Virginia...
A GOOD APPETITE; A Morning Meal Begs to Stay Up Late
New York Times, January 2007
A CRAVING that Americans share, to the exclusion of the rest of the world, is a penchant for cold cereal...
New York Times, January 2007
A CRAVING that Americans share, to the exclusion of the rest of the world, is a penchant for cold cereal...
Heaven in a Pie Pan: The Perfect Crust
New York Times, November 2006
A FEW years ago, I achieved perfection in a pie crust and it smelled like pig. Not in a muddy,...
New York Times, November 2006
A FEW years ago, I achieved perfection in a pie crust and it smelled like pig. Not in a muddy,...
Fewer Come to the Harvest Table, But Meals Are Still Memorable
New York Times, October 2006
IT was a harvest day like any other at Clos Roche Blanche vineyards in the Loire Valley. The weather was...
New York Times, October 2006
IT was a harvest day like any other at Clos Roche Blanche vineyards in the Loire Valley. The weather was...
Precision Cuisine, The Art of Feeding 800 a Night in Style
New York Times, September 2006
IN the arena-size basement of his stadium-size restaurant, Buddakan, the chef, Michael Schulson, translates the graceful choreography of the usual...
New York Times, September 2006
IN the arena-size basement of his stadium-size restaurant, Buddakan, the chef, Michael Schulson, translates the graceful choreography of the usual...
The Chef: Zak Pelaccio; From Malaysia, a Pungent Ferment
IN the climate-controlled comfort of his parents' loft in SoHo, where Zak Pelaccio was cooking some of his favorite Malaysian...
IN the climate-controlled comfort of his parents' loft in SoHo, where Zak Pelaccio was cooking some of his favorite Malaysian...
Tiny Come-Ons, Plain and Fancy; The Amuse-Bouche Is Welcomed at Home
AS I helped a friend prepare for a dinner party on the Lower East Side recently, she gave detailed instructions...
AS I helped a friend prepare for a dinner party on the Lower East Side recently, she gave detailed instructions...
The Chef: Zak Pelaccio; The Familiar Cubano, With a Kiss of Complexity
GIVEN a choice between making a dish that is crowd-pleasing but predictable and one that is risky and potentially groundbreaking,...
GIVEN a choice between making a dish that is crowd-pleasing but predictable and one that is risky and potentially groundbreaking,...
The Chef: Zak Pelaccio; The Freshest Produce (And Duck Tongues?)
AMONG the many orders of chefdom, there are two rarely intersecting sects. There are the zealots of the farmers' market...
AMONG the many orders of chefdom, there are two rarely intersecting sects. There are the zealots of the farmers' market...
Hot Nights, Cold Suppers
THERE is an essential truth about cold cooked meat that's revealed in a brisket sandwich -- what I call the...
THERE is an essential truth about cold cooked meat that's revealed in a brisket sandwich -- what I call the...
Tonight I'll Have What They're Not Having
LEWIS SPADA, the manager at Fish Tales in Brooklyn, was momentarily flummoxed when I asked for Boston mackerel. Of all...
LEWIS SPADA, the manager at Fish Tales in Brooklyn, was momentarily flummoxed when I asked for Boston mackerel. Of all...
Celery and Salad Take Turns as Dessert
IN a restaurant, the division between the savory and sweet sides of the kitchen runs far deeper than, say, a...
IN a restaurant, the division between the savory and sweet sides of the kitchen runs far deeper than, say, a...
First Came the Smoker, Then the Ingredients
SOME kitchen equipment is purchased to make a dish easier to create. Some dishes are created to justify the purchase...
SOME kitchen equipment is purchased to make a dish easier to create. Some dishes are created to justify the purchase...
One Dessert, Many Flavors, Even Sweet
IN the ultrawhite kitchen beneath his ultrawhite restaurant, the chef Iacopo Falai held two seemingly identical pieces of candied fennel...
IN the ultrawhite kitchen beneath his ultrawhite restaurant, the chef Iacopo Falai held two seemingly identical pieces of candied fennel...
One Dessert, Many Flavors, Even Sweet
IN the ultrawhite kitchen beneath his ultrawhite restaurant, the chef Iacopo Falai held two seemingly identical pieces of candied fennel...
IN the ultrawhite kitchen beneath his ultrawhite restaurant, the chef Iacopo Falai held two seemingly identical pieces of candied fennel...
To Lure the French, Don't Be Too Sweet
OVER lunch with my Parisian friend Florent in a frayed cafe off the trendy Rue Oberkampf several months ago, the...
OVER lunch with my Parisian friend Florent in a frayed cafe off the trendy Rue Oberkampf several months ago, the...
Weighing In on the Boxes for the Fast-Food Set
Weighing In on the Boxes for the Fast-Food Set Nothing is better than homemade macaroni and cheese, but in the...
Weighing In on the Boxes for the Fast-Food Set Nothing is better than homemade macaroni and cheese, but in the...
For Perfect Cookies, Add a Big Dollop of Blithe Abandon
WHEN it comes to improvising in the kitchen, pastry chefs are adamant. Winging it may be fine when making savory...
WHEN it comes to improvising in the kitchen, pastry chefs are adamant. Winging it may be fine when making savory...
Would Any Other Frenchman Do This To a Grape?
THAT you can take the pastry chef out of La Roquebrussanne but can't take La Roquebrussanne out of the pastry...
THAT you can take the pastry chef out of La Roquebrussanne but can't take La Roquebrussanne out of the pastry...
Alliums' Adventures in Wonderland
It may not have been a tumble down the rabbit hole, but the trip to Annie Wayte’s home—twisting along Chinatown’s...
It may not have been a tumble down the rabbit hole, but the trip to Annie Wayte’s home—twisting along Chinatown’s...
No One Ever Slaved Over a Hot Toaster Oven
A CONFESSION: Until recently, tucked between the latest-model ice cream maker and a high-tech juicer, sat the toaster oven I've...
A CONFESSION: Until recently, tucked between the latest-model ice cream maker and a high-tech juicer, sat the toaster oven I've...
Easing the Way to Dinner
LACKING the icy gloss of a dry martini or the urbanity of a perfect manhattan, aperitifs have always played the...
LACKING the icy gloss of a dry martini or the urbanity of a perfect manhattan, aperitifs have always played the...
A Student of the Pizza Does a Little Homework
In the narrow kitchen of his apartment on Flatbush Avenue in Brooklyn, Andrew Feinberg was about to make clam pizza....
In the narrow kitchen of his apartment on Flatbush Avenue in Brooklyn, Andrew Feinberg was about to make clam pizza....
Honey, There's a Fish in the Bathtub
When you live with a chef, you deal with the possibility that he will turn the bathroom into a meat...
When you live with a chef, you deal with the possibility that he will turn the bathroom into a meat...
These Little Meatballs Stayed Home
There are some people who get into the restaurant business because of its service aspects; they thrive on interacting with...
There are some people who get into the restaurant business because of its service aspects; they thrive on interacting with...
For Pizza Royalty, Pasta Stars at Lunch
2005-03-09
What could be more romantic than whiling away the hours in a snug Flatbush Avenue walk-up, making ravioli with the...
2005-03-09
What could be more romantic than whiling away the hours in a snug Flatbush Avenue walk-up, making ravioli with the...
The Latest From Spain, Way Beyond Foam
2005-01-26
Food mavens from around the world compared notes on the latest culinary wizardry last week during the Third Annual Madrid-Fusion...
2005-01-26
Food mavens from around the world compared notes on the latest culinary wizardry last week during the Third Annual Madrid-Fusion...
Rose, chocolates and an urge to inhale
2004-12-30
Some people contend that a bit of divine inspiration is always present in the creative process. As Pichet Ong tells...
2004-12-30
Some people contend that a bit of divine inspiration is always present in the creative process. As Pichet Ong tells...
An American Finish to Any Meal
2004-12-15
In a florescent-lighted, concrete-lined room off the snaking corridors of the kitchen at Spice Market, Pichet Ong, the pastry chef,...
2004-12-15
In a florescent-lighted, concrete-lined room off the snaking corridors of the kitchen at Spice Market, Pichet Ong, the pastry chef,...
Pearls of Three Traditions Melt in One Glass
2004.12.01
Early one day I met Pichet Ong in the basement kitchen of Spice Market, the restaurant on West 13th Street...
2004.12.01
Early one day I met Pichet Ong in the basement kitchen of Spice Market, the restaurant on West 13th Street...
You Can Thank Asia for This Pie
2004.11.17
Nearing Thanksgiving, as most pastry chefs ponder the annual what-to-do-with-a-pumpkin quandary and wax nostalgic about pies past, Pichet Ong, the...
2004.11.17
Nearing Thanksgiving, as most pastry chefs ponder the annual what-to-do-with-a-pumpkin quandary and wax nostalgic about pies past, Pichet Ong, the...
Mystery Herb, in Celery's Cloak
2004.11.03
If Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray soda had a kick, it would taste exactly like the house aperitif at Franny's in Prospect...
2004.11.03
If Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray soda had a kick, it would taste exactly like the house aperitif at Franny's in Prospect...
The Cookies That Simply Would Not Go for a Ride
2004.09.01
In Italy, buckwheat is used mostly in a hearty polenta or a cheese-filled pasta called pizzoccheri. But at the Cascina...
2004.09.01
In Italy, buckwheat is used mostly in a hearty polenta or a cheese-filled pasta called pizzoccheri. But at the Cascina...
For Halvah, Use 1/2 Cup Nostalgia
2004-03-24
SMALL sand-colored blocks of halvah may be a familiar sight on the counters of delis and Middle Eastern markets all...
2004-03-24
SMALL sand-colored blocks of halvah may be a familiar sight on the counters of delis and Middle Eastern markets all...