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Chanterelle
2004-02-01

With new love, finding romance in any restaurant, from the local diner on up, is easy. Longer-established love, on the other hand, responds to a subtle nudge. In New York, our recommendation for this type of coaxing is Chanterelle. Ask for one of the corner tables nestled near the window; there’s ample space between you and your neighbors to foster a sweet sense of isolation, yet you still command a view of the elegant room — glowing with yellow walls and festooned with co-owner Karen Waltuck’s effusive flower arrangements. Like the best relationships, after 25 years the cuisine of her husband, co-owner David, remains both faithful and titillating, happily free of any flirtations with culinary frippery. His superb signature dishes, like seafood sausage or poached cod with Manilla clams and pig feet, are neither fussy nor distracting, and the intelligently chosen cheese tray gives you yet another reason to linger well into the night. There may be no better place to continue the conversation you started with your beloved, oh, how many years ago?

Chanterelle, 2 Harrison Street, 212-966-6960