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Wine Enthusiast - May 1, 2003
What's that rare red meat on your plate, the one with the wings and drumsticks and crispy, feather-scarred skin? It looks like poultry. It's been cooked like poultry. But it cuts, bleeds, and chews more like beef or lamb. And with its assertive, earthy, meaty flavor, it definitely doesn't taste like chicken.
Of course, if you've been eating out a lot lately, you've probably noticed the proliferation of exotic birds on menus. While chicken may still reign supreme as a crowd pleaser, chefs looking to be more creative with poultry are turning to game birds such as squab, quail, duck, and partridge, grouse, guinea hen, and pheasant.
But what wine does one pair with a bird that's arguably red meat in disguise? Do you treat it like chicken and opt for soft and fruity reds like Beaujolais or a Lagrein? Or model it on lamb, venison, or other gamy red meat, and go for something with gusto and depth, like an Australian Shiraz, California Cabernet Sauvignon, or Rhone or Languedoc-Roussillon blend? And where, if anywhere, do the whites fit in?
Confusing? Indeed. It's all enough to make a wine lover cry "fowl!"
Birds of a Feather
Although by their name, people would assume that game birds are wild animals felled by a hunter's shot, in fact most of what one finds in restaurants has been farmed-raised. This is good in terms of availability since farmed birds are in season all year long. For chefs, these birds are more consistent and easier to deal with—picking out buckshot is never an issue. Their meat also contains a little more fat than their wild counterparts, which, given that the ultra lean flesh of these critters often cooks up as dry and tough as cardboard, is a good thing. But some aficionados find the taste milder and less complex and compelling than true game.
In terms of wine pairings, the challenge, says Brian Duncan, the wine director at Bin 36 in Chicago, is the bird's flavor diversity; "you can't lump them into a single category."
The options run the gamut from the tender, amenable, sand-colored meat of a pheasant to the forthright, livery, crimson flesh of a wild partridge. But there are some characteristics that game birds have in common: They all have a lot more flavor than your average chicken. And though the intensity of the taste varies, they tend towards a pronounced, earthy, robust flavor that can border on gamy.
Pascal Fiancette, the sommelier at the Wheatleigh in Lenox, Massachusetts, advises matching the weight and intensity of the bird's meat with the wine. Paler-fleshed birds like pheasant, poussin (free-range baby chicken), guinea hen and capon would work with medium-bodied reds with apparent fruit, such as a cru Beaujolais like a Morgon, a Dolcetto, or a California Merlot. Darker, redder birds like grouse, duck, goose, squab and quail call for bigger, bolder wines like Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends, Aglianico, or Barbera. And the deepest of all the birds, the partridges and pigeons, can hold up to even the inkiest of wines: Zinfandel, Shiraz, Tavolo Nero, or Southern Rhones.
If you've noticed the missing varietal, it's because Pinot Noir will go with any of the above. In fact, given the range of styles it's made in, Pinot Noir may be the across-the-board best choice for game birds, the bottle to reach for when in doubt. What all Pinot Noirs have in common, like the game birds themselves, as Brian Duncan says, is an underlying earthiness.
Think of the lighter-styled Pinot Noirs, such as Sancerre rouge or Savigny-Les- Beaune or Santenay from Burgundy, with the lighter birds. Darker fleshed meats call for weightier, bigger wines such as Burgundies from Gevrey-Chambertin or Pommard, or rich, fruity California or Oregon wines.
Along those lines, David Rosoff, the managing partner and wine director of Opaline in Los Angeles, also recommends Piedmontese reds, like a baby Barolo or a Nebbiolo D'Alba, which he considers "akin to Burgundy."
"Wine from Piedmont and Burgundy are both terroir-driven. With game birds you get an earthier flavor than you do with most meats, so I look for a wine that's earthy rather than fruity. I would go for wines that are all about the soil and minerals and maybe spice."
Although a white wine may not be intuitive to serve with game, richer, fuller styles can also pair well, especially Riesling.
"Rieslings are versatile, they are workhorses but people tend not to think of them. But game birds and Riesling are terrific," says Brian Duncan, "It has to do with the residual sugar, acid, and concentration of the wine, which focuses and elevates the rich, livery flavor of the meat. Think of foie gras with Sauternes. It works in the same way."
Watch Your Technique
It's crucial, as it always is with wine and food pairings, to take the cooking technique and garnish of the dish as much into account as the main ingredient.
When thinking about poultry, this comes as second nature to most sommeliers, since pairing a wine with chicken—the tofu of the animal world— is generally all about the sauce.
"Since poultry is often accompanied by a sweet or fruit-based sauce," says Dan Perlman, the wine director of AZ and Pazo in New York City "it's important to consider the sweetness of the wine as well. You need a wine that will stand up to it, and is a little sweet itself. Otherwise the sauce will seem cloying and the wines will seem flavorless." An off-dry white like a Riesling or a Gewurztraminer is a good choice.
Red wines, Perlman says, will also work, "but they should have a lot of fruit, which might not be sweet in terms of residual sugar but will have a sweet perception on the palate." His suggestions? A Zinfandel or a Barbera.
For a simple preparation, such as a roasted bird with a browned crackling skin, white Burgundies or other barrel-aged Chardonnay will complement the caramelization.
Another interesting choice, notes Brian Duncan, would be an older Savennieres from the Loire. "It can have a crème brulee flavor that makes a great pairing with roasted meats and vegetables," he asserts. "I would stick to a lighter bird like a pheasant for this wine, rather than anything too intense like squab."
From Riesling and Chardonnay to Pinot Noir and Zinfandel, the choices are staggering. So when it comes to matching game birds with wine, the sky's the limit!
Sidebar: A Field Guide to Birds Beyond Chicken (we can cut this if there is no room)
Grouse: Similar to quail, with lean red meat and gamy flavor, farm-raised grouse are available September through early December. They are also hunted in the U.S. and U.K., where beaters are required to rouse these plump birds into the air because they don’t like to fly and hunters consider it un-sportsmanlike to shoot a bird on the ground.
Pheasant: Introduced from Asia in the late 19th Century and found throughout the U.S., this large game bird is similar to grouse, but its meat is lighter.
Partridge: Farm-raised partridge resemble quail, but are larger, and their dark meat has a slightly more pronounced flavor.
Quail: Found in the U.S., Eurasia, Australia and Africa, quail are the smallest of game birds. They resemble miniature partridges, which are in the same family. Farm-raised quail are available year-round, and are enjoyed for both their dark, succulent meat and their small, flavorful eggs.
Squab: Also sometimes called pigeon, squab are technically young (25-30 day old), pre-flight, domestic pigeons with tender dark meat and a lightly gamy flavor.
Pigeon: An older squab with slightly darker, more robust meat. Sometimes the term is used interchangeably with squab.
Guinea Hens: Guinea Hens are a farmed game bird similar to pheasant, but with a more delicate flavor. Their medium-dark meat is both firm and tender.
Spiced Duck Leg Confit
BIN 36, Chef John Caputo
Although the confit is delicious the day it is made, it gets even better after a few days in the refrigerator. And don't throw away that extra duck fat. It's terrific for frying potatoes and eggs.
Wine Recommendations: Wine Director Brian Duncan recommends a California Pinot Noir such as 2001 DE-FIN-I-TIVE, Carneros, California. "The driving force here in this dish is the spice. Pinot Noirs have some great spice flavors to them. In addition to spice, this particular wine is silky and smooth, with black cherry, red currant tea, oak-laced cranberries and smoke."
For the duck:
4 star anise
1 teaspoon whole coriander
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 tablespoons salt, plus additional to taste
8 bay leaves, crushed
1 teaspoon dried thyme
4 duck legs
4 shallots, peeled and thickly sliced
8 garlic cloves, thickly sliced
2 to 3 cups duck fat, to cover
For the sauce:
1 cup apple cider
4 sprigs fresh sage
1 shallot, chopped
2 cups duck or chicken stock or low sodium broth
Salt
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar or to taste (optional)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
To prepare the duck: In a pan over medium high heat, toss the anise, coriander and peppercorns until fragrant and toasted, for 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the spices to a plate to cool, then grind in a spice mill, clean electric coffee grinder or using a mortar and pestle. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the salt, bay leaves and dried thyme.
Cut through the duck legs' skin and meat all the way around, just below the leg joint. Press the spice mixture onto the duck legs.
Place the duck legs on a rimmed baking sheet or plate and sprinkle the shallots and half the garlic over them. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.
Preheat the oven to 275° F. In a saucepan or microwaveable bowl, gently warm the duck fat until it is pourable.
Use paper towels to pat the duck legs dry, then place them in a deep baking dish that will hold them in a single layer. Pour the warm duck fat over them to cover. Cover the baking dish with foil or a lid and transfer to the oven.
Cook for approximately 2 1/2 to 3 hours, until the meat is very tender and almost falling off the bone (be careful, the duck fat will be very hot). Let cool completely in the pan.
When cool, gently transfer the duck legs to a deep storage container (a ceramic crock is traditional). Strain the duck fat left in the pan through a fine sieve and pour it over the legs to completely cover (this layer of fat will protect the legs from air and keep them preserved). The duck legs will last for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
For the sauce: In a saucepan over medium heat combine the cider, sage and shallot and bring to a boil. Simmer until reduced to a syrup, about 5 minutes. Pour in the stock and simmer until reduced to a sauce consistency, about 7 minutes.
Season with salt and add the cider vinegar if desired. Remove pan from heat and whisk in the butter. Strain through a mesh sieve and keep warm.
To serve: Preheat the oven to 350° F. Bring the duck legs to room temperature and remove them from the fat. In a large, ovenproof sauté pan over high heat, warm enough duck fat to reach 1/4-inch up the sides of the pan. Heat until very hot but not smoking, and add the legs, skin sides down. When all the legs are in the pan, turn the heat down to medium and sauté until the skin is brown and crisp all over, about 7 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven to heat the duck through, about 5 to 10 minutes.
Serve the duck legs with the sauce. Serves 4.
Cavolo Nero Stuffed Squab Breast with Squab Ragout
Opaline, Chef David Lentz
Cavolo nero, or black kale, is a staple in Tuscany. It can be seen growing in gardens all over the region, where clumps of its inky, tapered leaves look more like ostrich plumes than vegetation. It has a richer flavor and slightly more delicate texture than regular kale, which nonetheless makes a fine substitution. In the USA cavolo nero might also be labeled as Tuscan kale or Lacinato kale.
Wine Recommendation: Since the inspiration for this dish comes from Italy, David Rosoff, the wine director, recommends a Nebbiolo from Piedmont. "Squab tastes like liver or truffles and that makes me think of Nebbiolo," he asserts. While an expensive Barolo would match beautifully, Rosoff loves a bargain, like the 1999 Claudio Alario Nebbiolo D'Alba "Cascioto" "This wine is a textbook example of Nebbiolo's ability to combine power and grace," he says. "There are equal parts earth and fruit; notes of spice, tar, violets, spice and truffles. It drinks like a good Barolo."
For the squab:
4 (1-pound each) whole squab
4 garlic cloves, 3 minced, 1 thinly sliced
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup diced peeled carrot
1/4 cup diced celery
1/4 cup diced onion
1/4 cup diced fennel
1 bay leaf
1 fresh thyme sprig
1 fresh rosemary sprig
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup dry sherry
3 cups squab or chicken stock
For the cavolo nero:
1 bunch cavolo nero or kale, stems removed
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/3 cup thinly sliced onion
2 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and black pepper to taste
To prepare the squab: Use a large sharp knife to cut each squab into breasts, carcass, wings, and legs (reserve the carcass for making stock if desired). Place the squab breasts in a dish and sprinkle with the sliced garlic, thyme leaves, salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
To prepare the squab ragout: Preheat the oven to 350° F. In a bowl, toss together the carrot, celery, onion, fennel, and remaining minced garlic. Cut a 6-x-6-inch square of cheesecloth, lay the bay leaf, thyme sprig, rosemary and peppercorns in the center of the square, pull up the corners to make a sachet and tie it closed with kitchen twine.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add the squab wings and legs and cook until brown all over, about 8 minutes. Transfer the wings and legs to a large bowl. Add half of the diced vegetables to the same pot and sauté until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Pour in the sherry. Stir to scrape up any brown bits. Simmer until almost all of the sherry is evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add 2 cups of the stock and the cheesecloth sachet to the pot and bring to a boil. Add the squab legs and wings.
Cover and transfer to the oven. Cook until the leg meat is fork-tender, about 3 hours. Let sit until cool enough to handle. Pull the meat from the bones and reserve (discard the bones).
Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a heavy large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the remaining diced vegetables and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the squab leg and wing meat and 1 cup of stock. Simmer until the stock is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Season the squab ragout with salt and pepper and set aside.
To prepare the cavolo nero: Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it well. Add the cavolo nero and blanch for 2 minutes. Drain well.
Heat the butter and oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add cavolo nero and crushed red pepper. Cover and cook over very low heat until the cavolo nero is very tender, stirring occasionally, about 30 to 40 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
To cook the squab breasts: Butterfly the squab breasts by slicing deep pockets into them horizontally. Stuff each breast with 1 heaping tablespoon of the cavolo nero. Stack one breast on top of another to make four stacks. Tie the stacks with kitchen twine. (The breasts can be stuffed 4 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate, then bring to room temperature before serving.)
Preheat the oven to 400° F. Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large, heavy ovenproof sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the squab breasts and cook until brown on all sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the squab until just cooked through but still deep pink, about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest 3 to 5 minutes. Clip off the string.
To serve, place some of the squab ragout in the center of each plate and top with a squab bundle. Serves 4.
Roasted Pheasant with Truffles
The Village Pub, Chef Mark Sullivan
This dish is nearly as good without the truffles. Be sure not to overcook it, or the meat will be dry.
Sommelier Andrew Green likes the way Riesling cleanses the palate after each bite of this rich meat. His pick? The Doctor Loosen Auslese Urziger Wurzgarten Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 1997. For a red, he looks to Burgundy, especially wines from Nuit-Saint-Georges, either the Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Bousselots 1999, or Domain Meo-Camuzet Aux Murgers 1990, both of which echo the earthiness of the truffles.
2 (2 1/2 pounds each) whole pheasants
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
5 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
1/4 cup diced onion
1/4 cup diced leek
1/4 cup diced carrot
1/4 cup diced celery
2 cups red burgundy or other dry red wine
3 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
5 sprigs fresh parsley stems
1 garlic clove
1 bay leaf
White truffle oil (optional)
2 ounces truffles for serving (use fresh Perigord black truffles in the winter, and white Alba truffles in the fall. You can substitute preserved truffles when not in season).
Preheat the oven to 400° F. Stuff the pheasant breasts under the skin with 1 sprig of the thyme and both rosemary sprigs. Season the birds with salt and pepper and place them on a roasting rack in a roasting pan, breast side down. Roast for about 45 minutes—the interior should still be pink, or the pheasant will become dry. Transfer to a plate, tent with foil and let rest.
Meanwhile, transfer the pan juices to a large sauté pan. Heat over medium heat and add the onion, leek, carrot, and celery. Sauté until lightly browned, about 3 minutes, then add the wine and raise the heat to high. Simmer until reduced to a glaze, about 10 minutes. Pour in the chicken stock, and add the remaining thyme, parsley stems, garlic, and bay leaf. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until reduced by half, about 7 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine mesh sieve and return it to the pan. Simmer over medium heat until reduced to a thin glaze, about 5 minutes longer. Pour the juices collected under the pheasant into the saucepan and season with salt and pepper and a few drops of truffle oil if desired.
Carve the pheasant breast and legs. Spoon the sauce around the plate and shave truffles over all. Serves 4.
Pan Roasted Partridge with White Beans and Chanterelles
The Wheatleigh, Chef Bryce Whittlesey
Partridge vary in size. The farmed birds tend to be larger, almost Cornish-game hen-sized, while the wild kind can be as tiny as quail. You can use any size in this recipe, just adjust the cooking time accordingly.
If you can't find chanterelles, oyster mushrooms, shiitake, hen-of-the-woods, morels, or cremini can be substituted.
Partridge calls for a wine that will balance its assertive, dark flesh. For this dish, Pascal Fiancette, sommelier at The Wheatleigh, points out the velvety texture of the meat and its rich sauce, as well as the earthy tones of the mushrooms and beans. He looks to deep, powerful reds, either from Bordeaux, or a Bordeaux blend from California. One of his favorites is a 1996 Chateau Poujeaux, a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot, for its complementary richness and earthy tones. From California, Fiancette likes Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 from Sonoma County, which has both intense red fruit and minerality.
For the white beans:
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/4 carrot, peeled
1/2 celery stalk
1/4 onion, peeled
1 cup dry white beans (cannellini or white Northern), soaked in water overnight
4 cups chicken stock, low-sodium broth, or water
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
For the chanterelles:
2 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 pound fresh chanterelles, washed, dried and cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon finely diced shallot
1 teaspoon finely chopped chives
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
For the partridge:
2 whole partridges (about 14 ounces each), broken down into 4 breasts and 4 thighs (reserve the bones for stock or discard)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 sprig fresh thyme
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth
For the white beans: Cut a 6-x-6-inch square of cheesecloth, lay the thyme, bay leaf, crushed garlic, carrot, celery and onion in the center of the square, pull up the corners to make a sachet and tie it closed with kitchen twine. In a medium-sized stockpot, combine the cheesecloth pouch, beans, and chicken stock or water. Bring to a boil, then simmer over medium heat until the beans are tender, but not thoroughly cooked through, about 1 1/2 hours. Remove from the heat, add the salt to taste, and let cool in the broth.
For the chanterelles: In a sauté pan over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Add the chanterelles and cook until liquid is released from the mushrooms, about 10 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and wipe the pan clean.
Add the butter to the pan and melt it over medium heat. Add the cooked mushrooms and toss them in the butter until they are crisp around the edges, about 5 minutes. Add the shallot and chives, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Set aside and keep warm.
For the partridge: Season the partridge breasts and thighs with salt and pepper. In a medium sauté pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the partridge, skin side down, and cook until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes (be careful not to let them burn). Flip the meat and add the garlic, thyme, and 2 tablespoons of the butter to the pan. When the butter starts to foam, use a spoon to baste the partridge with the buttery liquid in the pan. Baste continuously until golden and cooked through, about 5 more minutes (the meat should cook about 7 to 10 minutes in total.) Transfer the partridge to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm.
Skim the excess fat from the pan juices. Add the wine and chicken broth to the pan and simmer over medium heat until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Whisk the remaining butter into the sauce until smooth. Keep warm.
To serve, mound some of the beans on each plate and spoon the chanterelles around the beans. Rest 1 breast and 1 thigh on each mound of beans. Spoon pan sauce around the plate, drizzling it over the meat. Serves 4.
Ginger-Lacquered Quail with Vanilla Roasted Pineapple
AZ, Co-Chefs Patricia Yeo and Pino Maffeo
At AZ, Chefs Yeo and Maffeo serve this as an appetizer. But it also makes a light yet flavorful main course. Simply double the number of quail; there will be enough pineapple and ginger glaze to go around with the quantities already given.
Wine recommendation: "To stand up to the sweetness of the pineapple I look for an off-dry wine with good acidity," says Wine director Dan Perlman. To that end he suggests a Riesling or Gewurztraminer, or Sokol Blosser's Evolution, a blend of those two plus seven others including Chardonnay, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Muller-Thurgau, Semillon and Sylvaner. Fruity red wines will also work, as long as they don't have a lot of perceived oak. "This dish does not work well with too much oak," he maintains, "we thought it would because of the vanilla in the sauce, but we tried it and it clashes, perhaps because of the pineapple." Instead look for a Barbera, or a Zinfadel such as Green and Red.
For the pineapple:
1 large pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch rings
1/3 cup brandy
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, pulp scraped, or 1/2 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
For the quail:
1 1/4 cups pineapple juice
1/3 cup chopped fresh ginger
4 dried thai bird chiles (or 1 dried arbol chile)
2 fresh jalapeno chiles, roughly sliced
4 semi-boneless whole quail
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
To prepare the pineapple: Preheat the oven to 450? F. Stir together the brandy, vinegar, sugar and vanilla pulp or extract in a large bowl. Toss the pineapple rings in the brandy mixture until well coated. Spread the pineapple in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and roast, basting, until golden brown and glazed, about 20 minutes.
To prepare the ginger-pineapple glaze: Combine the pineapple juice, ginger, dried chiles, and fresh chiles in a saucepan over medium heat, and bring to a simmer. Simmer until reduced to a thick syrup, about 5 to 7 minutes. Strain the syrup into a large mixing bowl, discarding the ginger and chiles. (The recipe can be made up to this point and refrigerated for up to 3 days in advance.)
To prepare the quail: Meanwhile, rinse the quail, pat dry, and season all over with salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow dish and lightly dredge the quail with flour.
Just before serving, preheat the broiler. Place the quail on a broiler pan and drizzle with the oil on both sides. Broil until crisp and browned on both sides, about 7 minutes total.
To serve, transfer the quail to a platter and drizzle with the ginger-pineapple glaze. Serve immediately, with the pineapple rings. Serves 4 as an appetizer.