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The New York Times - April 10, 2002
It sounded like a risk. On the menu at the Harrison is an entrée of pan-crisped skate with ruby red grapefruits, olives, and a citrus emulsion. It wasn’t the citrus emulsion, which is classic with skate (think of skate with brown butter and lemon), and the olives seemed creative but logical. But grapefruit with skate? It wasn’t a pairing I’d ever seen before or even considered.
On the plate, though, it made perfect sense. The skate, crunchy around the edges as advertised, was firm and sweet, sweeter, in fact, than the grapefruit, which made a bracingly tart contrast. But taste a piece of grapefruit next to a briny, meaty olive, and it was succulent and sweet. Chameleon-like, the grapefruit changed with eat bite, but always adding a lively, citrus burst of juice, refreshing the palate between mouthfuls.
Why, I thought as I finished every last morsel, isn’t grapefruit added to savory dishes more often?
It turns out that it is, at least in New York City. Over this past winter and now into the spring, chefs have been using grapefruit in delicious, imaginative appetizers and main dishes that leave images of the breakfast table – and all those boring, broiled, grapefruit halves – behind.
Grapefruits current popularity is easy to understand. With neither the stinging acidity of lemons or limes, nor the overt sugariness of oranges and tangerines, grapefruits take the middle ground. The diplomats of citrus fruit, they negotiate all kinds of flavors, adding a spring-like vibrancy to starchy, heavy winter ingredients, and a tempering sharpness to those bordering on rich cloying. Plus, with colors ranging from pearly white to coral pink to scarlet, they make a garnish bright and flashy enough to jolt even the most blasé diner out of her stupor.
“I use grapefruit this time of year because it’s seasonal,” said Jimmy Bradley, the Harrison’s chef, “It works really well with sweet fish like skate and shellfish, especially scallops. You get a sourness that’s not as harsh as lemon, so there’s a contrast to the sweetness, but it’s a soft one.”
Teaming grapefruit with fish does seem to be the most popular way to use it, savory-wise. In just a few months I’ve seen grapefruit paired with shrimp, fennel and elderflower juice (Lespinasse), lobster, salmon, and green tea (Kai), John Dory and Campari (Guastavinos), crab and asparagus (Le Zinc), and a buttery Arctic char (Chanterelle).
But I’ve also seen it in other combinations, like the goat cheese and radish salad at AZ, grapefruit, turnip, and black truffle crumble at Papillon, and even with foie gras at Patria. And since my own epiphany, I’ve taken to sprinkling sections with sea salt and and olive oil as a mid-afternoon nosh that’s much more healthful than tortilla chips yet just as tangy as salsa.
Grapefruit juice is also a terrific replacement for all or part of the lemon juice in a salad dressing, lending a delicate, floral perfume. Or mix it with wine or cider vinegar for something a little less stringent than the average vinaigrette.
It’s mild acidity also makes grapefruit juice a good if nontraditional medium for making ceviche. In Chef Gerry Hayden’s version at Aureole, he marinates fluke in grapefruit juice instead of lemon or lime.
“You need to let it cure a little longer, maybe 5 or 10 minutes instead of 2 or 3,” he said, “it adds a refreshing quality to the dish. Plus, it’s a little bit different, and it’s always good to try something new.” And definitely worth the risk.
Pink Grapefruit, Radish, and Kalamata Olive Salad
Adapted from AZ
Time: 15 minutes
1 pink grapefruit
1 orange
2 ounce length of daikon radish, thinly sliced
4 French breakfast or red radishes, thinly sliced
1/2 cup of radish sprouts
10 kalamata olives, pitted and halved
2 tablespoons mild fresh goat cheese, crumbled
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon, or to taste
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Fleur de sel or coarse sea salt
1. Slice the ends off the grapefruit and stand it up on a cutting board. Slice off the peel, following the curve of the fruit. Make sure to cut away all the white pith, exposing the flesh. Working over a bowl to catch the juices, use a small paring knife to cut out the segments. Repeat with the orange.
2. Spread the daikon radish in one layer on a serving platter or two salad plates. Top with the citrus segments, then arrange the breakfast or red radishes over the citrus. Sprinkle with radish sprouts, olives and goat cheese. Drizzle with the lemon juice and then the olive oil. Sprinkle with sea salt to taste.
Serves 2
Citrus Marinated Fluke with Ruby Grapefruit, Cilantro and Ginger Cracklings
Adapted from Gerry Hayden
1-inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 cup sugar
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 ruby red grapefruits
3/4 pound sushi quality fluke, thinly sliced
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
3 piquillo peppers or 1 small red bell pepper, julienned
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup micro cilantro greens (see note)
1. Bring a small pot of water to a boil and add the ginger. Let simmer for 20 seconds, then drain. Repeat twice more.
2. In the same pot, combine the sugar with 1/2 cup water and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Add the ginger and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain and spread the ginger slices on paper towels to dry slightly.
3. Heat 2-inches of oil in a saucepan or deep skillet until hot but not smoking. Add the ginger and fry until crisp, about 2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the ginger slices to parchment paper or paper towels to cool.
4. Slice the ends off one of the grapefruits and stand it up on a cutting board. Slice off the peel, following the curve of the fruit. Make sure to cut away all the white pith, exposing the flesh. Working over a bowl to catch the juices, use a small paring knife to cut out the segments. Halve and juice the other grapefruit.
5. Place the fluke in a non-reactive bowl and season with salt and pepper. Pour in the grapefruit juice and let marinate for 5 to 10 minutes.
6. To serve, arrange the fluke slices and grapefruit segments on 4 chilled plates. Top with the picquillo pepper. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Garnish with the cilantro and ginger slices and serve immediately.
Serves 4
Note: If you can’t find micro cilantro greens, substitute sliced strips of regular cilantro leaves.